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Traditional Irish Storytelling Tour

WHAT: Traditional Irish Storytelling Tour
WHERE: Outside Extreme Ireland College Green Tourist office opposite Trinity College, Dublin, Ireland

RUNTIME: 2 hours
WHO: Hidden Dublin Walks & Tours

PRICE: €25

OUR RATING: Do It!

[youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuZV_44D3Us]

Ireland: a land steeped in myth and history. Once you have done Dublin it’s time to get out of the city and experience the wild Irish countryside and the stories that go with it. On the Traditional Irish Storytelling Tour by Hidden Dublin we revelled in mythology, drank up the beautiful countryside and literally imbibed some delicious complimentary beverages from the most stunning tour bus you’ll ever see.

Photo from ginasweetserenity2.com

Photo from ginasweetserenity2.com

Alicia: Folklore and Fairies. The Traditional Irish Storytelling Tour was the highlight of my trip to Dublin. It all starts out in near Trinity College. One moment you are outside in the noisy hustle and bustle of the urban city, but as soon as the bus doors open you are transported into a traditional Irish pub. This custom-built bus has the exterior of a medieval structure complete with a simulated thatched roof, but the magic is really inside, with wood panelled walls, dim lighting, red curtains, a red brick faux-fireplace, and of course a bar to quench your thirst.

The most magical moment was our stop at St. Anne’s Park in Clontarf, known to be a beloved by the mystical people of the Sidhe. Stepping out of the warm and dimly lit bus we suddenly realised we were no longer in the city center, but now in the beautiful emerald countryside that Ireland is so known and loved for.

storytelling4On one side were green pastures as far as the eye could see, and on the other was the lovely park, the second largest municipal park in Dublin. As we walked through the park our guide introduced us to the Battle of Clontarf, a massive battle that signalled the end of Viking rule in Ireland. We heard the story of the death of Brian Boru, one of Ireland’s most famous kings, and ran into a mysterious woman during our venture into the beautiful woods, including a massive and bewitching tree.

Adam will tell of our other adventures, but I’ll quickly mention The Church Bar, where our lovely tour ended. Our guide invited the group to share another pint with him at the site where Arthur Guinness was married and where Handel used to practice the Messiah. It was a great way to end the tour and to be able to chat and share a drink with some great new people we met along our journey.

storytelling2Adam: There is something naturally mythic about Ireland. No trip to the great city of Dublin would be complete without a journey into the heart of Irish myths, legends and history that truly flesh out any first impressions of the country. Our tour took us to fields, woods and beaches, all meticulously accompanied by the talented bards of Hidden Dublin.

What is truly lovely about this tour is the emphasis on believability and magic – because of your total immersion in the world of Irish history one starts to believe in the fairies and leprechauns so eloquently spoken of. Literally watching my step as I walked, it wouldn’t have seem surprising if a sprite had stepped out and confronted me.

At one point, we were taken the the mighty beach at the peninsula of Beann Eadair, where the whitecaps blew towards us, perhaps revealing the Irish mermen that are said to dwell beneath the depths. Unlike their female counterparts, mermen are tricky creatures who you might not want to meet!

Aboard the bus itself, one is treated to delicious Guinness from the on-board bar, as well as communal renditions of such great traditionals as Cockles and Mussels about the famous Molly Malone. Add to this the convivial and friendly guides who are always their to help and you have the best tour in Dublin!

Photo from ginasweetserenity.com

Photo from ginasweetserenity.com

Final Thoughts: Enthralling, friendly and a great way to see the countryside in a new light. Spend an evening with the people and stories that make up Ireland’s beautiful culture, and soak up everything from nature’s emerald green majesty to the smooth richness of a pint of Guinness.

P.S.: If you want to take the glory of Irish mythology home with you Penguin has a great little volume you might enjoy: Early Irish Myths and Sagas.

 

Dunne & Crescenzi

WHAT: Dunne & Crescenzi
WHERE: 14-16 Frederick St. South, Dublin, Ireland


OUR RATING: Do It!

Eileen Dunne and Stefano Crescenzi moved to Dublin from Rome in 1995. Four years later Dunne & Crescenzi came to life, starting with a small shop in Sutton and expanding to two restaurants in Dublin City Centre and another in Sandymount Village. There is much that distinguishes D&C, from their welcoming Italian atmosphere to their selection of more than 130 wines and their equally expansive menu composed of the finest and freshest of ingredients. We had the amazing opportunity to step through D&C’s doors and experience real Italy, and we hope we can convince you to do the same.

Adam: Dunne & Crescenzi exudes Italian character: traditional, familial and warm, one cannot help but feel you’ve been whisked off the streets of Dublin to a fine Roman style restaurant. Hundreds of bottles line the walls, encapsulating you in a viticultural haven, which couldn’t be further from the gloom that sometimes pervades the streets on a rainy night.

Bruschetta con pate’ di pomodori secchi, caprino e peperoni

Immediately seated in a perfect spot peering out onto the street, our affable and attentive waiter Dominico began my meal with the bruschetta con pate’ di pomodori secchi, caprino e peperoni. Two hefty pieces of bruschetta come topped with chunky sundried tomato pesto, warm goats’ cheese and wonderfully fresh peppers. The whole dish is lovingly dressed with just the right amount of olive oil, while the freshness of the ingredients was apparent. Too often I’ve seen bruschetta swimming in olive oil, but that was not at all the case here – perhaps the best bruschetta I’ve ever tasted!

Ravioli con funghi e tartufo con fonduta di Grana Trentino dop

I then moved onto my main course: ravioli con funghi e tartufo con fonduta di Grana Trentino dop. This ravioli is filled to bursting with amazingly flavourful mushrooms and truffles. In fact, the filling seems to be a wonderful combination of mushroom chunks and truffle paste. Dressed with more fabulously decadent truffle oil, again the balance was correctly struck and I was most impressed by this immensely flavorsome pasta. Interestingly, ravioli is in fact of the oldest Italian pastas, originating in 1300s Tuscany where it was mentioned by the merchant Francesco di Marco – obviously, he thought it was worth something!

Wicklow Potatoes

I accompanied this with a side of patate di Wicklow arrosto al profumo di rosmarino, considering that I was in Ireland. These roasted baby potatoes are herby and full-flavoured, the rosemary in which they are enveloped creating a beautifully aromatic sensation upon the palate. A definite must.

Macedonia con biscotti

Finally, I finished dinner with the macedonia con biscotti, an extremely fresh fruit salad complete with biscotti. A heaping portion of fruit served in a healthy orange based sauce included bananas, strawberries, blueberries and pears. But when it comes down to it I was most impressed with the biscotti – did you know there was more than one type? Chocolate, almond, traditional and hazelnut created a quartet of different textures: dark chocolate mingled with harder, traditional almond, while hazelnut had a softer feel, unlike most biscottis you’ll try elsewhere.

But what marks D&C out most are its friendly and warm customers. The couple we sat next to even offered us their wine! With warmth like that and food that is beyond compare, Dunne & Crescenzi is a definite Do It for both Dublin and Ireland itself.

Roasted Vegetables

Roasted Vegetables

Alicia: At Dunne & Crescenzi, there is absolutely no way you’ll go home hungry. The plates are gigantic and the food rich and delicious. After glancing at page after page of menu options, you may be at a loss of what to select from the what’s on offer, but the staff at D&C are more than willing to help you and give you a great suggestion.

Antipasto Misto

In addition to the bruschetta, we decided on the Antipasto Misto, with a selection of Villani Emilia Romagna charcuterie, chargrilled vegetables including zucchini and artichokes, and garnished with Tuscan pecorino cheese. Oh, and of course served with warm bread. The charcuterie plate offered a welcome plethora of nibbles, our favorite being the marinated artichokes, which had a perfect texture and a well-balanced flavor.

Nasello con crema di ceci profumata al rosmarino

Knowing I would have a huge meal before my main course, I thought I would try to select something a little bit lighter for my main. Being a fish lover, I ordered the nasello con crema di ceci profumata al rosmarino (or, fresh hake with chickpea puree, perfumed with rosemary). While the hake was a little too subtle in flavor for me despite the rosemary (although beautifully cooked I might add), the chickpeas were delicious, with toasted chickpeas dotting throughout the puree and offering a very complex mixture of flavors as well as adding the perfect crunch.

Insalata mista

But that’s not all folks. My main came with not only a side of oven baked vegetables (your usual baby potatoes, peppers and carrots, as well as the unique additions of parsnips and sweet potatoes), but a salad as well. And not just any side salad, but a gigantic plate of insalata mista – mixed leaves and tomato dressed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar from Modena. Need I have to clarify I definitely DID NOT finish all of this food in one go?

Final Thoughts: When you visit Dublin, your first thought might not be Italian food. But when you’ve had enough of Irish stew and Guinness, your first stop should definitely be D&C. From the welcoming atmosphere to the amazing service, and not to mention deliciously authentic Italian cuisine by the truckload and their wide selections of wine-by-the-glass, Dunne & Crescenzi is the perfect night out for anyone in the city, natives and tourists alike.

 

Butlers Chocolates

Screen Shot 2013-08-29 at 12.09.04 PMWHAT: Butlers Chocolate Cafe
WHERE: 24 Wicklow St., Dublin 2, Ireland

OUR RATING: Chance It!

Ireland and chocolate. Okay, we admit that this isn’t the most known pairing of country and perishable good, but Butlers Chocolates proves that Ireland not only knows chocolate, but really gets it. We stopped by their flagship cafe in Dublin last week, and by the end of our stay we were practically rolling out the doors full of chocolatey goodness.

Adam: Butlers Chocolates is a truly all-Ireland company. Dating back to 1932, when Marion Bailey-Butler (no relation to the Baileys of Baileys, who are actually a fictional entity of 1970s marketing) created an intricate range of handmade chocolates on Lad Lane in Dublin. Marion happily churned out her own chocolates until 1959, when she sold the company to Seamus Sorenson (whose name perfectly combines the capital’s Irish and Viking histories). The company did not have a retail store until 1989, when it opened a shop on Grafton Street. Since then, chocolate shops have sprung up across Ireland, the UK and the world (we were surprised to hear the newest addition to the collection was in the United Arab Emirates). The first chocolate cafe, and the one we are reviewing, opened on Wicklow Street 1998.

Salted Caramel (center), Dark Chocolate Raspberry (top), White Butter Praline (Right), Milk Chocolate Truffle Log (bottom)

Butlers Chocolates are a far cry from their 1400 BCE Mesoamerican antecedents (smoked or as a nutritious drink), but they capture the European adaption of chocolate in a most marvelous way. I started with the Milk Chocolate Soft Caramel, which had a lush and full flavour that didn’t leave you begging for milk – a very good taste! While I knew that I was supposed be tasting salt also, it seemed undetectable to me, but that didn’t detract from my caramel treat.

Next up was the beautifully composed White Butter Praline, of milk chocolate with praline pieces embedded deep within it. I always think the classification of a nut as praline interesting, considering there is no one praline nut, and it more refers to a combination of different nuts ground together. Perhaps most interesting about this chocolate was the silkiness of the white variety. After consuming heavier chocolates it’s nice to have a break and sample something altogether more simple.

Finally, for the chocolates, I devoured our favorite dark chocolate and raspberry (with a dark chocolate shell, a thin layer of raspberry and a lovely chocolate cream) and a wonderfully rich Milk Chocolate Hazelnut Truffle Log. The texturised contrast in this last chocolate between the crunchy hazelnuts and the Gallic truffle was a feast for the mouth. In fact, there is something decidedly Celtic about any truffle with hazelnuts in it: the first varieties of this nut were cultivated in Scotland and Ireland over 9000 years ago.

Hot Chocolate

Hot Chocolate

Aside from the chocolates themselves, I was also served up a deliciously authentic dark hot chocolate. But Butlers hot chocolate is not made from your average cocoa powder and a heaping tablespoon of sugar – this is the real deal. In the most venerable tradition of the Maya, Butlers melt their dark chocolate directly into the drink, meaning that you get no nasty preservatives or artificial flavouring. The result is simple and strong – a blast of bitingly dark chocolate that would revive the most weary traveller.

Brownie

Brownie

But, what meal would not be complete without a brownie. Now, this being Ireland, I half-expected a spritely little fellow to appear on my plate and offer me some mischief, but then I remembered Brownies are actually from Scotland and Northern England and my fear was alleviated. Unfortunately, Butlers brownie was slightly, well, normal – nothing much to write home about. Quite a solid brownie, but no different to what I’ve had elsewhere. Rule of thumb: stick to the simple stuff – truffles and hot chocolate – and you can’t go wrong at Butlers.

Alicia: Luxurious. Decadent. These are the two words I associate with Butlers. As you walk into their flagship store, one immediately gravitates to the mirrored bar-like area, a unique and chic take on a chocolate shop. There are colours of gold, dark brown and black, there are elegant lights, and the shop attendants are classy and professional. While you can purchase boxed chocolate on their merchandise wall, or pay a quick trip to the till and have a bit of chocolate/coffee take-out, this store welcomes patrons to sit down and relax, and fully experience indulgence.

Almond Cafe (center), Dark Chocolate Truffle (left), Mocha (top), Milk Chocolate Butterscotch (bottom)

Almond Cafe (center), Dark Chocolate Truffle (left), Mocha (top), Milk Chocolate Butterscotch (bottom)

In addition to the chocolates Adam mentioned, we also sampled four other truffles and chocolates from Butlers during our trip. My favorite of this batch was a milk chocolate with a butterscotch filling, perhaps one of the most unique chocolates my tastebuds have ever encountered. The center was creamy, subtle and rich all at once. Next followed a dark chocolate truffle with 70% cocoa solids. Beautiful creaminess paired with a delicate dark chocolate shell, there was bliss in its simplicity. The final two on the docket, an almond cafe (creamy almond praline and coffee centre, covered in white chocolate and topped with a coffee bean) and a mocha chocolate, while not as impressive as the others, were appreciated for their masterful layers.

Iced Caramel Macchiato

Iced Caramel Macchiato

But let me tell you, all of this chocolate makes one extremely thirsty. Yes, we could have washed it all down with some water, or even a little milk, but we decided to make the most of our stay and sampled their iced caramel macchiato and their latte. The macchiato was a great addition to our little meal, as it offered a refreshing and light take on such a rich-sounding drink. The caramel and coffee were evenly balanced, and the texture of the drink was top-notch with the addition of caramel ice cream.

Latte

Latte

And the latte, well, the baristas at Butlers are true artisans. They are extremely proud of their craft and attempt to serve all of their products up to perfection. We almost didn’t want to dig into the warm and creamy drink out of fear of ruining the artistry…but in the end the desires of our tastebuds outweighed those of our eyes, and we enjoyed the steaming hot latte.

Like Adam suggested, stick with the chocolates. We had the opportunity to taste Butler’s white chocolate and raspberry muffin. While moist and speckled with fresh fruit, we would probably choose to save our stomachs next time and skip the baked goods.

Final Thoughts: If you’ve traveled to the US, you’ve probably visited, or at least heard of, chocolate shops/cafes like Ghirardelli’s. In this respect, Butlers Chocolates isn’t the most unique of concepts globally, while it seems to be in Dublin. It sure isn’t your mom and pop sweet shop. And while we appreciated the relaxed atmosphere of their cafe, our visits to their other locations informed us that most of their shops are mostly set up for take-out and boxed purchases. Ultimately, if you’re in the mood for some chocolate indulgence, take a chance with Butlers. It’s not hard…they’re everywhere in Dublin!

P.S. Although we didn’t experience these for ourselves, Butlers also offers two unique excursions for chocolate lovers. You can either tour their chocolate factory (called the “Chocolate Experience”) or even join them for cooking classes where you cook with (you guessed it!) chocolate!

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